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by Molly & Eric Pastoral
Looking back, it's difficult to remember which was more exciting to us: going to the Olympics or visting Australia. The Olympics offered an opportunity to see the world's best riders competing in the most prestigious of all equestrian events. Australia provided its own intrigue, a mysterious and exotic place, but one with which we share a common language and heritage. The prospects were overwhelming.
How do you prepare for such an adventure? Packing a suitcase or two is the easy part. But, mentally, we had no previous experience to give us the context into which we could place our new experiences. One thing was for certain: this year''s Olympic games were not the same event I had been watching on television over the years!
On May 22, 2000 I received the phone call that would literally change our lives. Some months before I had filled out a slip of paper with my name and address and dropped it into a little cardboard box at Glisan Street Saddlery in Portland. You know, one of those "contests that no one ever wins." I was checking my phone messages from the stable that day and retrieved one from Adam Bucknell, who works for Weatherbeeta, U.S.A. My name had been chosen from about 60,000 entries throughout the United States as the grand prize winner of their "win a trip to the Sydney 2000 Olympic Games" contest. I ran down the aisle, telling everyone at the barn my good fortune. They all assumed I had won a Weetherbeeta blanket. When I clarified that I had, indeed, won a trip for two to the Sidney Olympics everyone was very excited and green with envy.
The grand prize included airfare for two, hotel, full fare Australian breakfast daily, plus tickets to three days of Dressage and three days of Show Jumping. My friends immediately asked who I was going to take with me. "I'm taking my husband," I said. Everyone joked that he wouldn't appreciate it as much as they wouldas he didn't know anything about horses. "Come on people," I laughed, "it's Australia, of course he wants to go!"
It was a long summer, waiting for September to roll around, but two passports and lots of film later, we found ourselves boarding a 747 bound for the land down under. We left Los Angeles on Sunday evening, September 24th. It is important to remember that, being in the Southern Hemisphere, Australia's seasons are opposite ours. We were leaving the cold and gray of a Portland autumn and heading to the rebirth of Sydney spring. Spring time in Sydney can bring temperatures as high as the mid-80's. For Portlanders that's hot!
The Olympics had actually started the week before we left, and we had watched much of that week's events on television, with growing anticipation. When we arrived in Sydney, nearly halfway through the games, the airport was still buzzing with people arriving from around the world (we could tell who the Americans were because Cartan, the travel agency that arranged for all American travel to the games, had given out blue knapsacks, and occasionally we would run into a sea of blue backpacks. Alas, we had left our blue bags at home). The flight from L.A. to Sydney took about 17 hours, and we were tired. Nevertheless, our adrenaline was starting to kick in; we were in Australia!
Our first impression of Sydney came when our shuttle bus delivered us to the hotel. We rode over the Harbor Bridge, with a great view of Sydney harbor, "The Rocks" and the Opera House. We saw magpies, palm trees, and lots of little cars that you can't get in the U.S. In truth, the only real difference between Americans and Australians, apart from the funny accents (I'll leave it to you to decide for yourself which is the funny accent) is Australia's curious attachment to Vegemite, an extremely salty spread made from yeast extract that they put on crackers and on their toast (one native even admitted to us that she sometimes stirs it into a cup of hot water for a savory drink; eeww!). Outside of that, we felt right at home from the start. We settled into our hotel, and later had dinner with a couple of Sydney-siders we had met through a friend at my stable. But we barely had time to absorb the notion that we were in the land down under; the Olympics were upon us. Starting tomorrow!
Transportation to and from the games was provided by public transportation. Sydney had beefed up their schedule of trains and buses to accommodate the massive movement of humanity required by the games, and the results were amazing. Though it took us nearly two hours, each way, to get from our hotel to the games, it hardly ever seemed it. The trains ran on time, were easy to decipher, and there were smiling volunteers on nearly every platform to direct you to the best train to your destination.
Equestrian events were held at the aptly named Horsely Park outside of Blacktown. Though somewhat distant from downtown Sydney (about 20 miles) the trip each day was worth it. Nestled in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, Horsely Park was an ideal venue for world class equestrian competition. Dressage at the Olympics is scored based on three rounds that take place over the course of four days. 50 riders go into round one, which takes place over the first two days; half ride on day one, and half on day two. Only the top 25 advance to round two on day three, and only the top 15 of those advance to day four finals.
Also, day one and two, the first round rides, serve as the basis for team scoring. Our first day at the Olympics was day two, the second day of round one. The grandstand seated nearly 40,000 spectators, and was home to a small city of vendors and the obligatory "port-o-potties". As the buses approached the venue, we could see the stands rising up out of the hills, adorned by the colorful flags of all the participatory nations. Tremendous excitement wells up before you even get off the bus!
Let me attempt to set the scene for you: our first full day in Australia, a beautiful and thrilling place, and here we are thrust into the Olympic Games. We took our seats under the brutal Australian sun, and watched with jaws agape as the first riders began their Grand Prix tests. In a flash, the day was over, the scores were tallied. The riders who qualified for the next round were identified, and the team scores were announced. Germany took the Gold, The Netherlands took Silver, and the U.S.A. was awarded the Bronze! It suddenly occurred to us that we were about to be treated to an Olympic medal ceremony. Getting back to what I said earlier, there is nothing that can prepare you for the emotion that accompanies an Olympic victory. To witness such an event it is an experience like no other. Our pride in seeing the Americans on the Bronze platform was not dampened a bit when the German national anthem was played. Our true enthusiasm was for this wonderful, heart in your throat international event. Never before had we felt so much like citizens of the world.
At this point we need to admit a dirty little secret; we did not go to the games the next day. We decided instead to go to Olympic Park, where all the big venues and games were clustered. We spent a little time and a lot of money at the official Olympic Superstore, taking tons of pictures of the Olympic Flame outside of the stadium. We then headed to downtown Sydney to spend some time in one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
If you, ever have the opportunity to visit Australia, leap at it. You will not be disappointed. You will never forget Sydney Harbor. We returned to Horsely Park for the second round of dressage. The top 25 riders from round one were riding. It was a long day, with five riders each hour. The riding was spectacular; it inspired me to ride better, to take less back-talk from my mare, and to appreciate my good fortune to be a part of this marvelous sport based on partnership. It was clear the best riders in this competition were the ones who had the closest relationship with their horses. We were also reminded that even the best riders have days where everything just seems to go wrong. You know that little bell the judges ring when you go off course? Believe it or not, we heard that bell on day three. Robert Dover (U.S.A), on nine year old Rainer, lost his way not long into his ride. He was visibly shaken and took a few moments to get back on course. It was a disappointment for him, surely, but reminded us all that no matter what level we're riding, fundamentals will continue to haunt you.
Day four (dressage finals) was equally inspiring, but with the added beauty of Grand Prix freestyle set to music. Only 15 riders and their horses qualified for the finals, and these were the best of the best. It occurs to you, while watching this, that all the riders who participate in the Olympics had to prepare for three separate, distinct tests, and perform each test at the pinnacle of their skills. Of course, the finals presented it's own host of side shows.
Only moments into her ride, Ulla Salzgeber's (GER) musical accompaniment began to cut in and out. Ulla attempted to continue, but the distraction was too much for the judges. They rang the bell, and considerable time passed before a solution was devised. They allowed her to finish the test later, after the other riders had gone. Ulla, riding Rusty, went on to win the Bronze medal (much to the delight of her hometown fans, who had hung a sign reading "We Love Ulla"). Another intriguing sub-plot that day was the knowledge that this would be the final competition for two of what may be considered the greatest contemporary dressage horses; Gigolo (ridden by Isabell Werth, GER) and Bonfire (ridden by Anky van Grunsen, NED). We were honored to watch those final rides, and pleased as ever to see Anky win the Gold and Isabell to win the Silver. Not more pleased, though, than the Dutch nationals in attendance. These are the most enthusiastic fans of dressage in the world. Maybe it was the brass marching band; the hair dyed orange; or the little inflatable windmill hats. In short, it was absolutely inspiring how much energy and enthusiasm they invest in their beloved sport. And on this day, they were rewarded with the Gold medal.
We were sorry when the Olympics ended, but there was still another full week ahead of us to explore greater Sydney. We saw some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. We got up close and personal with kangaroos and koalas at a wildlife park. And we hiked the trails in the scenic Blue Mountains, about two hours outside of Sydney. And of course, we got to know some of the friendliest people in the world. At the end of the Sydney games, there were many who said that they were the best Olympic games ever. Of course, we have nothing to compare it to, since it was our first Olympic experience, but it would be hard to imagine having a better time in any other city during any other games. The people of Sydney welcomed us wholeheartedly and were so well organized; everything from public transportation to the placement of rubbish and recycling bins on every corner made us feel like all of our needs were met at every juncture. I can say, without hesitation, that the biggest, greatest party I've ever been to or could hope to attend was the fireworks ceremony in downtown Sydney to close the games. We sat on the waterfront with a million and a half other people and watched the best fireworks display ever, all to the chants of "Aussie, Aussie Aussie." To which we all replied, no matter which country we hailed from, "Oy! Oy! Oy!"
When not admiring Sydney's opera house, Molly Pastoral makes her home in Portland, Oregon. She has been riding since she was nine years old, including Pony Club, three day eventing and, currently, dressage. She is the proud partner of a 15 year old gray Westfalian mare, Chrysella. They board at DevonWood Equestrian Centre in Sherwood, Oregon and train under Teri Emrich. Molly's husband Eric is a proud horse husband and now knows more about dressage than he ever dreamed possible. See more about the trip on Molly & Eric's website: homepage.mac.com/ericpastoral.